The title above might give you the impression that I received a personal tour of the White House by the President himself, but that scenario is about as likely to happen as a coral reef catching on fire. In truth, it refers to a little trip I recently took to visit the estates of three of early United States Presidents. I had decided in early July that it was time to get away from the Washington, DC area for awhile, as I had not been away from the area in nearly two years. Although a trip to Canada had fallen through earlier in the year due to time and expense, I still felt the need to get away for a bit, even if I didn't even leave the state of Virginia. I quickly decided that my destination would be Charlottesville, VA, where I would book a room at a Holiday Inn for two nights on my getaway. But I didn't want to just lounge around in my hotel room staring at the walls or the TV – I could have done that at home. I wanted to visit a few of the town's attractions while I was there, specifically the nearby estates of Presidents Monroe, Jefferson, and Madison. So here is my summation of my " Presidential Tour. "
Ash Lawn-HighlandThe first stop on my Presidential Tour, Ash Lawn-Highland was the home of James Monroe, the fifth President of the United States. Monroe was one of only two Presidents to serve as officers in the American Revolution and was present at the Battle of Trenton. He had a very active career as a statesman before he was President: Ambassador to France under Washington and Jefferson, Minister to the Court of St. James (effectively, ambassador to Britain), Governor of Virginia, and Secretary of State and temporarily Secretary of War under Madison (the only man to hold both posts at the same time). Monroe is probably best known for the Monroe Doctrine, which states that the Americas were to be free from European re-colonization and influence, especially in those nations that had won their independence. (It's interesting to note that while the Doctrine bear's Monroe's name, it was actually written by his Secretary of State, John Quincy Adams.) The estate is currently owned and operated by James Monroe's alma mater, the College of William and Mary (which is located in Williamsburg, VA).
If you look at this picture (
fc01.deviantart.com/fs48/f/200…), you'll notice that the house has two different colors. The white portion of the house is the original Highland house (Highland being the original name Monroe gave his property). The yellow "Ash Lawn" section of the house was added on by a subsequent owner, likely to replace a section of the house that burned down before. Although archeologists have found original foundation for the Highland portion that was destroyed, there are no plans to replace that section, largely because the room arrangement and furnishings have been lost. The name "Ash Lawn" came after Monroe but before the addition of the yellow portion and came from the stand of ash trees that line the road up to the grounds, placed there by one of the estate's many post-Monroe owners. Ash Lawn currently serves as offices and changing rooms for house guides, entry point for the house tours, and exhibit space.
The price of admission into the grounds of Ash Lawn-Highland is $10 and includes a tour of the house and some of the grounds. House tours start in the receiving hall of the Ash Land portion of the house, which also hosts two exhibit areas: a permanent one in the receiving hall and a temporary one in a side room. The temporary exhibit house a showcase of period chairs the Monroes either owned or could have owned during their residence, along with a replica of Elizabeth Kortright Monroe's wedding dress. The tour covers the interior of the Highland part of the house and can take up to an hour, depending on how long winded a particular guide is
. No pictures are allowed inside the house; the guide explained that it was because most of the items inside were on loan, though I suspect preservation and flow issues play a part as well. The tour ends at the kitchen and storeroom located under the Highland house, where another guide in period dress is stationed. Guests can wander this area on their own while asking questions to the resident guide, or they can wander the grounds where they look over the Monroes' vegetable garden. They can also view the outer buildings, which include a smokehouse, overseer's office, a "duplex" cabin for the house slaves (later converted into guest quarters), and an icehouse that was under construction when I visited. There are plans to raise a Monroe-era barn on the site; the trusses have already been constructed. Ash Lawn-Highland also have pens for living animals: I saw sheep, chickens, and at least four peafowl during my visit. I also heard one guide mention a bull on the grounds, but I didn't go searching for it. There's a statue of Monroe across from the front door, along with an early highway marker nearby; according to one placard, Monroe was responsible for establishing one of the first national highways.
I stopped at Ash Lawn-Highland the same day I went down to Charlottesville, which is a little over two hours away from Alexandria by car. While all three estates are fairly close to each other (Ash Lawn and Monticello are less than three miles from each other), I had chosen Ash Lawn to be my first stop because, on a map at least, it was the furthest from where I lived. I also though it make a good location to kill time at, since I knew I'd be in Charlottesville long before the Holiday Inn would let me check in. In my opinion that decision turned out to be fairly fortuitous: the grounds at Ash Lawn are easily the smallest of the three estates. Between the house tour and my own wanderings over the grounds, I easily covered just about everything to see there in less than three hours. I was reminded of a visit I had made to Gunston Hall: both consist mainly of the main house and a few outer buildings. Ash Lawn does have a few attractions that Gunston Hall does not, but it's still not a place I'd plan to spend all day at. I do think that it is a good place to visit when traveling into or out of town or for a single day trip. I found the tour highly informative, and the guide took the time to answer the few questions visitors had. The grounds were well maintained, though I neglected to re-ask an earlier question about the two colors of the house. Overall, I'd say that Ash Lawn-Highland was good, quiet start to my trip.
MonticelloThe next stop on my Presidential Tour was Monticello, home of Thomas Jefferson, third President of the United States and author of the Declaration of Independence. Unlike other famous presidential estates, like Mount Vernon or Montpelier, which simply expanded on previously built houses, Monticello was designed and built from the ground up. Jefferson would spend much of his life redesigning and rebuilding the house, using ideas he picked up in Europe during his tenure as Ambassador to France. He also used the grounds around Monticello as a living laboratory, growing a variety of fruits, vegetables, and herbs for cultivation and flowers for simple enjoyment. Of all of Jefferson's accomplishments over his lifetime, he thought only the Declaration, the Virginia Statute of Religious Freedom, and the foundation of the University of Virginia worth mentioning in his epitaph.
Monticello is located almost precisely between Ash Lawn-Highland and Montpelier, making it sort of the center star of the three estates. The price of admission is $20 and can be purchased at the Visitor Center, located near the base of the 850ft peak the house sits on. The Visitor Center is also home to an exhibit gallery, a theater where a 15 minute film on Monticello and Jefferson plays, a bronze map of Monticello plantation during Jefferson's time, and a gift shop. Visitors can stop at a small café for lunch, while a bronze statue of Jefferson stands at the top of a set of stairs to greet guests to his home. From this statue, visitors can either walk or a take a shuttle up to the house. Once at the house, visitors have three tours to choose from: the house tour, a community tour that covers the slave cabins and industrial buildings along Mulberry Row, and a Garden tour that covers the flower garden around the West Lawn, the orchard field, and the vegetable garden. House tours are tightly controlled; visitors can only enter at a specific time printed on their tickets. On the other hand, visitors can join the community and garden tours at any time; these start on the hour and quarter past every hour, respectively and run about 45 minutes to an hour, depending on the guide. Once guests have completed touring the grounds, they can walk down along a tree-lined path down to Jefferson's grave before returning to the Visitor Center and their cars.
As I mentioned before, Monticello is sort of the superstar of the three estates in Charlottesville; I'd go as far as calling it the Mount Vernon of Albemarle County. The grounds are considerably larger than those at Ash Lawn-Highland, not so large that I couldn't see and do everything there is to do there, but I still needed most of the day. I did take the shuttle up to the house, as I thought it would be easier to walk down the hill than up. Besides, I only had a little over twenty minutes before my tour started once I got my ticket; by the time the shuttle got up the hill, it was less than ten. Even so, I think I prefer Monticello's scheduled tours over the usual "stand and wait" entry at other places, Mount Vernon included. I don't think scheduled house tours are really necessary at places with comparatively low attendance numbers, like Ash Lawn or Gunston. It might be useful at Mount Vernon, though, considering that visitors can wait in line for up to two hours or more. I should mention that the system at Monticello isn't fool proof; my group had to be divided in half due to size. Still, for a place that gets as many visitors as Monticello does, it's better than standing in line for hours on end. Again, as at Ash Lawn, there are no pictures allowed inside the house, for the sake of preservation.
I've been to Monticello before and have taken the house tour before, but was surprised at the small size of the rooms inside the house; I remember them being a little bigger (or maybe I was smaller). The tour only covers the first floor of the house; the second floor is closed off to regular tours due to fire regulations. I still found the tours very informative, such as when the guide pointed out which rooms were the hottest or the coldest at certain points of the year, and that the Octagon Room was used by the Madisons during their visits to Monticello. I was surprised that my particular guide talked about Sally Hemings, Jefferson's alleged mistress, rather freely, without prompting, although I did hear of some guides who didn't mention her; probably depends on the guide you get. I should note that it was a fairly brief mention and didn't go too deeply into the controversy. I still enjoyed the tour, though, and it was interesting to see all the gadgets and gizmos he had had, either by his own design or those he purchased. I had my doubts before, but after my visit, I can now imagine that if Jefferson lived today, he's be rockin' out his MP3 player while surfing the Web on his netbook.
I also took the time to take the community and garden tours while during my visit and found them to be just as informative as the house tour. The Community Tour takes visitors down Mulberry Row, so named for the rows of mulberry trees that line the path. Mulberry Row is where the slave cabins and industrial buildings were located, though only the buildings' foundations and the chimney of the Joinery are left. One slave cabin site now serves as a grave site for Rachel Levy, mother of Uriah Levy, who bought Monticello in 1834 and worked hard to preserve the site. The guide here also talked about Sally Hemings, although in more detail than at the house; considering this site's subject matter, I think it's a little difficult to avoid that particular controversy entirely. I think it's good that the guides aren't completely ignoring the matter entirely, even if they remain cagey as to whether or not Jefferson pursued a relationship with Hemings and fathered her children. The garden tour starts at Jefferson's flower garden, which almost surrounds the West Lawn and is in bloom with different flowers at all times of the year, except winter. The tour runs through the field behind the West Lawn, which was the location of his orchard where he tried cultivated various trees, including his desired maple and olive trees. It then continues into the vegetable garden, which provided vegetables and herbs for Monticello, and which Jefferson used as one of his "living laboratories." The vegetable garden still produces vegetables and herbs (if the gardeners can keep the deer away) and the produce is distributed among the Monticello staff when they mature.
One landmark the guide on the garden pointed us to during this tour is Montalto, also known as Mountaintop Farm, Patterson's Mountain, and Brown's Mountain. Jefferson bought the east face of the mountain for lumber and the ground water on the mountain, something Monticello lacks. He had plans to build an aqueduct from Montalto to Monticello, but died before his plans could be realized. The Thomas Jefferson Foundation, which operates Monticello, bought the property in 2004 to head off plans for a residential development and intend to replant the site with a blight resistant strain of American chestnut, which was common in Jefferson's day. I thought it's great that the folks at Monticello are doing what they can to preserve as much of the region as they could: while Montalto would definitely treat residents to a picturesque view of Monticello, I'm not sure that Monticello's guest would feel the same.
Monticello was a great experience, one I'd readily go back to, especially when they replant those chestnut trees on Mount Alto. They have some great tour and the Thomas Jefferson Foundation has done an excellent job preserving and running the place. I highly recommend visiting this place if you're in the area.
MontpelierThe last stop on my Presidential Tour was Montpelier, home of James Madison, fourth President of the United States and the chief architect behind the US Constitution. Madison had actually been born at Mount Pleasant, located just down the hill from Montpelier. The original house at Montpelier was built by Madison's father, James Senior, and was expanded at least twice in Madison's life time: once after he married Dolley Payne Todd Madison, and again after his father's death in 1801. From its construction, Montpelier housed two generations of Madisons up until the death of Madison's mother Eleanor "Nelly" Madison in 1829. When James Madison died in 1836, Dolley sold the property and in 1901, Montpelier was purchased by William and Annie duPont. The duPonts expanded the house even further, adding an additional 55 rooms, though the core house was apparently preserved. The last owner of Montpelier, Marion duPont Scott, bequeathed the grounds to the National Trust for Historic Preservation, which took over in 1984.
One thing anyone visiting Montpelier has to keep in mind is that the site is very much in a transitional state. The National Trust is currently working to restore Montpelier to its state when Madison died in 1836, which meant removing all extensions the duPonts added when they owned the house. The architectural work has been finished for about a year and the project has moved to the interior décor of the house. The latter project is likely to take a few years, as it means trying to closely match all of the furniture, wall paper, and rugs that the Madisons had during their residence. The work is likely made all the more difficult considering that at least two generations of Madisons lived in separate halves of Montpelier; according to my house guide, Nelly "Mother" Madison was more conservative in her choice of décor and furnishings than her daughter-in-law Dolley.
The price of admission to Montpelier is $15 and includes a tour of the house and access to two exhibit galleries in the Visitor Center: the duPont Gallery, where two rooms from the duPont era have been preserved, and Treasures of Montpelier, where artifacts from James and Dolley Madison's time are on display. The house tour begins at the Visitor Center and starts after a short film on Madison and Montpelier and covers both floors of the house. No pictures are allowed in the house itself for preservation purposes, although I should note that at the time of this writing most of Montpelier's rooms were devoid furnishings and décor. The tour takes about an hour, give or take, and ends on a porch at the back of the house. From here, visitors can wander the Back Lawn, and take their picture with life size statues of James and Dolley Madison. Visitors can also wander kitchens and storerooms in the cellars on each side of the house, one for each Madison matron. The room above Nelly Madison's kitchen is host to a Constitutional Exhibit that explains James Madison's influential role in framing the Constitution. Near Dolley's kitchen at the Northeast wing of the house is a outdoor cooking area, where visitors can watch and even participate in preparing food the way it was done in Madison's time. There is also an archeological dig site nearby, located on the site of one of two outdoor kitchens that were in use during Madison's lifetime, and an Archeological Lab can be found down the road behind Montpelier. Also near the northeast wing is Madison's Temple, a Roman-style gazebo that doubly functioned as a 23ft deep icehouse. Near the southwest wing is a tent where guests can try their hand at the techniques of construction and crafts that were used to build Montpelier in Madison's time. Nearby is also the foundations for the other outdoor kitchen as well as a slave cabin that housed the house servants. Also nearby is the Annie duPont Formal Garden, a two-acre terraced garden that visitors can wander at their leisure. Behind all that are barns run by the Thoroughbred Retirement Foundation (TRF), added in the mid-2000s as a sort of nod to the horse racing legacy of Montpelier's last owner, Marion duPont Scott. Going down the hill and past the Visitor Center, guests can visit the site of Mount Pleasant, Madison's birthplace, now little more than an open field. Nearby is the Madison Family Cemetery where both James and Dolley are buried as well one of several slave cemeteries found on the old Montpelier property.
I had initially planned for Montpelier to be my first stop as it was on the way to Charlottesville, but decided to make it my last since, by same token, it was also on the way home. I had been to Montpelier several years before, just as the National Trust was starting its restoration work on the house, so it had still looked as it did when the duPonts lived there. I was going back out of curiosity to see how far along the work was, and I have to say, on the outside, Montpelier looks worlds better than it did with all the duPont additions. I'd actually gotten some information from a guide at Ash Lawn-Highland about Montpelier, specifically that the architectural work was complete and that the rooms were largely devoid of furniture and décor. The Ash Lawn guide had been there six months before my visitor, so I was hopeful that some things had changed, but I was neither disappointed nor surprised when I saw the empty rooms. The main reasons why rooms at Montpelier were empty were because the workers were waiting for the plaster on the walls to cure, a process that, given the right conditions, takes about 18 months. When I visited, the plaster had another six months to go, and the Trust has been using that time to research the kinds of furniture, the style of wallpaper, and what portraits were hung in each room. Not all the rooms were devoid of furniture; a few, like the dining room and a couple studies, had furniture in them, and the reception hall had several portraits hung up – including one that was large enough to go from floor to ceiling. Considering how many changes the duPonts had made to the house, I was amazed that the people at Montpelier knew what all the rooms were used for during Madison's time, although there are probably diagrams and blueprints from that age in an archive somewhere. I also found it interesting that at least one bedchamber on the second floor that will be left in a semi-constructed condition as an exhibit on the reconstruction efforts. Despite the empty interior, I still found the house tour to be highly informative and I love to go back to see what the rooms could have looked like when Madison lived there.
Although the National Trust is working to restore Montpelier to its appearance at the point when Madison died, what I liked about the work is that the Trust is not totally evicting the duPont legacy. As I mentioned before, at least two of the rooms from the duPont Montpelier have been preserved at the Visitor Center. The first is Marion duPont Scott's Art Deco room, which she called the Red Room, which has been preserved exactly as it appeared during her lifetime; it looks kind of like the interior of a 1950s diner. The other is the Grand Parlor, a room that has actually be reconstructed at the duPont Gallery in a slightly larger format that it was at Montpelier, but the décor is apparently exactly what was there. You can also find photos of William and Annie duPont, who purchased Montpelier in 1901, along with those of Marion Scott and the racehorses she bred, including her favorite, Battleship. There is also at least one photograph of Montpelier with the duPont additions, so visitors can see what the house looked like before it was restored. Also staying are the steeplechase tracks and horse fields that Marion Scott maintained during her lifetime; the steeplechases are still held ever November, providing a ready source of income for Montpelier. The Annie duPont Formal Gardens will also remain as they are; they were once Madison's vegetable gardens, but apparently, the groundskeepers aren't interested in maintaining a vegetable garden.
One thing I'd recommend before visiting Montpelier is to bring plenty of sunscreen. There's a little shade in the Back Lawn, but the front has very little trees. This is especially true of the Mount Pleasant site, which is a wide open field, so bring as much sunscreen as possible, especially in the summer. I'd also recommend bringing plenty of water, as there is a lot of ground to cover if you plan to see everything there is to see. And if you want to see everything, I suggest putting aside most of the day – fortunately, the Montpelier brochure shows you what you can see in certain amount of time. Because of my schedule, and due to general lack of interest, I skipped the Archeology Lab and the TRF barn. There's another attraction across from Montpelier called Gilmore Cabin, a small farm that apparently represents African-American life following slavery. It's also the location of a Confederate campsite, with reconstructed huts. Again, due to time and general lack of interest this trip, I skipped this site, but it might be worth looking into the next time I'm there. Overall, a fun trip, with a lot of stuff to see and do, even with the empty rooms in the main house.
SummaryI thoroughly enjoyed my trip to Charlottesville and my visits to Ash Lawn-Highland, Monticello, and Montpelier. There were a few surprises at the estates, such as Ash Lawn's small size, the openness of Monticello's guides to talk about Sally Hemings, and the fact that Montpelier was a 18th century version of a duplex. Driving back north past Fredericksburg on a Saturday afternoon was a pain, so if anyone finds a way from Alexandria to Charlottesville that doesn't involve I95 I'd recommend that route, and let me know for future reference. The Holiday Inn I stayed was a joy to stay at, with clean rooms, good service, easy check-in and check-out. I even got a refrigerator a microwave and a coffee maker in my room, though I only used the refrigerator (I don't drink coffee). The hotel also had an in-house café and bar that I did visit both nights; service was a little slow but the food was delicious, as was the weekend breakfast bar. My only real complaint is that their cable service doesn't carry either the Discovery or History Channels, but again, I wasn't there to watch TV. I would definitely recommend staying there if you're ever in the Charlottesville area. I would also recommend all three estates to any history buff or to people who are just generally curious.